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| Who needs airbags?? |
This blog is a bit of "living in the
past" but better late than never!!! Where to begin..........!!! We were
quite prepared for the inevitable immigration officers at various borders as we
went along our journey
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"Hmmm, the language on the signs just
changed again, must be in a new country?" |
but soon came to realize that as part of the "European
Union" there are no borders. The only indication you have that you
have driven from one country into the next is that the language on the traffic
signs change! You eventually see the "Welcome to..." signs but
generally it's not right at the beginning! The sad part is that we would love
to have all of these wonderful stamps in our passports but as yet we have none!
Once we left France
and made our way into Germany
the terrain changed almost immediately and the design of homes became much more
Nordic looking. France
was very fashion forward and the women were all immaculately dressed. In Germany we
found it to be very tidy and ordered but more laid back as well. There were
many little foothills surrounded by these lovely little valleys with their
quaint old villages. And in every little village is a lovely old nondescript
church. As it was Christmas time we were able to see all of the Christmas
decorations. The homes weren't overly decorated as with North
America. There were small trees outside of the houses all
decorated and normally sitting on the front step of each home. In the center of
the villages were almost always a town square and these were more ornately
decorated with snowmen, trees and Christmas nativity scenes. As we headed into
the foothills we began to see snow for the first time this year!!! Oh how I
wish
we had Christmas music!!! The higher we climbed the lovelier the scenery
around us. It was hair-raising due to the number of switchbacks as we climbed
and at times there was only room for one vehicle so we were in major prayer
mode!!! We were eventually surrounded by mountains with rock cliffs hanging over
the road and mountain streams flowing right next to us amongst the tall pine
trees covered in snow. Truly a winter wonderland. As dusk approached we started
to see the lights from the villages below. It was so beautiful. The Gasthaus (guest
house) we were staying in was almost at the very top of a major foothill and it
had snowed quite a lot up there so driving became a bit challenging for us but
we finally made it and were thrilled with the spot we had chosen to stay
for the next few days while in
Germany.
The Pension Gasthaus Feldergblick is nestled into the hills of Southern Germany in The Black Forrest region. If we
hadn't already made plans for our cruise we would have considered staying right
through Christmas! Our hostess was lovely and her Gasthaus was just what we
were looking for. Our room was large and open with a very up-to-date bathroom
complete with heated towel rack (really need to buy one of those when
we return to Canada!)
Over the next few days we did some touring and
drove into Switzerland for the
afternoon to see Zurich
as
well as take in the hospitality of the local community. Our favorite
restaurant was at the local brewery on top of the mountain in the village of Grafenhausen
which makes some of the best beer in all of Germany! Each night it was a
highlight of the meal try the beer! Rothaus beer has been in existence since
the 1700's when a monastery up in the hills started brewing it. It has remained
on the same site and is a wonderful tourist spot which houses the brewery, the
restaurant, a hotel and gift shop. If you're ever in the region it's definitely
worth a stop if for no other reason than to sample the local brew!! (and
Brendan will attest to the fact that their Black Forrest Cake is nothing short
of amazing!) http://rothaus.de/de/heimat_rothaus_grafenhausen_schwarzwald.
Our "little jaunt" into Zurich was wonderful. We
all felt as though it is an elegant "Belle" of Switzerland. Its
very ornate buildings and the waterways leave you feeling as though there should
be women with parasols and synched waists and men in top hats with canes!! Very
stately and proud, Zurich
emits wealth as though it was one big Rolex watch!!!! The shopping district is
incredible and there is even an "opera district" complete with hotels
restaurants and spas all catering to the patrons who frequent the very old and
beautiful opera house. As Switzerland
is part of our journey after our time in Italy
we only stayed a few hours in Zurich before
heading back to Germany.
On our way out of town though Brendan spotted a McLaren dealership, which was
the highlight of his day (one of the most exclusive and expensive cars in the
world!!)
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| Wow, travelling with these dudes can tire out a bear ... |
Looking back on my journals I feel so truly fortunate
and blessed to be making this journey with my wonderful husband and amazing 14
year old son. We have been travelling together for many months now, often in
very small quarters and yet we still laugh, visit and continue to enjoy one
another so much. It's been wonderful to have this time with them both. What an
amazing life we have! We are truly grateful!
We were looking forward to our next stop which
was Bavaria but also regretful to be leaving
this wonderful haven in the mountains of Germany. We had a lovely leisurely
morning visiting with the owner of the Gasthaus and took some pictures of her
with her German dolls and of course with Pooh. Then it was
time to make our way
on the road again towards Cinderella’s Castle -otherwise known as Schloss Neuschwanstein.
John had been there many years ago when he was in the military and had always
wanted to take me there so he was really excited for this part of our trip!!!
We were later leaving than what we wanted but it was so worth it to have the
time we had to visit.
Once again we were blessed with a crisp clear day
and driving along the Swiss Alps was so breathtaking. We stopped several times
along the way to take pictures so we were later arriving than what we had
anticipated! (well worth it!!) When we arrived I can't even begin to describe
what we saw. The castle is nestled high on a mountain cliff surrounded by trees
and of course snow. It was beyond anything I could have imagined. Brendan was
excited because to go to the castle you have to take a horse and carriage!
(cool!!) We had only just missed the last tour so we booked tickets for the
following morning and then made our way into town. We were booked into a
Holiday Inn that John had found in Munich but
decided
to stay in the village
of Hohenschewangau next
to the castle instead. It was very charming and the festival of St. Nicholas
was to be that night so we were definitely curious about that!!! In Bavaria, and throughout Germany, December 5th is the night
when St. Nikolaus comes to visit. The tradition states that all houses are to
be spotless and that the children are to have cleaned a pair of boots or shoes
thoroughly and then when the old saint with his long flowing beard and golden
staff comes knocking he brings his book and notes all the good deeds the
children have performed throughout the year. If they have been very good then
he leaves treats and a note of praise, if not then he leaves twigs and no note!
(shortened version)! The part of the festival that we participated in and would
rather have missed was that of the "Buttnmandl run"! One of the odder
traditions related to St. Nicholas is the annual run of the Buttnmandl in Bavaria.
The Buttnmandl
are men clad from head to toe in straw who run through town on the evening of
Dec. 5 clanging cow bells to ward off evil spirits. Typically they are
accompanied by Krampus, men wearing scary fur masks carrying switches that they
flick at the legs of people who get in their way, particularly young girls and
men who are deemed not to have treated their women well enough. It’s believed
this tradition goes back to pagan rituals among Germanic tribes related to
fertility rites. In any event, two of the more notable Buttnmandl runs are in Berchtesgaden and Bischofswiesen,
a small town on the Austrian border.
We had gone for dinner at the local Italian
restaurant (I know right??).
We started to hear cow bells ringing in the
distance and when we went to leave the restaurant we ran right into a group of
men all dressed from head to foot in straw with long beards and scary fur
masks!!! They took a particular interest in John and started
"switching" his legs with their twigs!!! They finally agreed to let
him be if we sang a Christmas song. So after regaling them with ‘We Wish You a
Merry Christmas’ we were allowed to be on our way. So aggressive were they that
they stopped a car in the middle of the street and hauled the driver from the car
to answer for his "deeds"!! Holy cow I do believe I prefer the North
American traditions. Oh and by the way, Brendan was across the street the whole
time laughing in the safety of the shadowy street!!! (smart kid!!) The rest of
the evening was spent in relative quiet in our room at the Hotel Weinbauer. We
did laundry, Skyped with Brendan's school teacher and settled in as we listened
to cow bells and shrieking outside our room!! Eventually the bells faded into
the night and we were all 3 able to sleep very well. (Another 5 star
recommendation for a hotel if you're ever in the area.)
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| Best way to get to Schloss Neuschwanstein!!! |
In the morning we woke to fresh snow and
sunshine. Could we have asked for a more perfect day to visit the Castle?! We
had a generous breakfast of cold meats, cheese, fresh fruit and pastries along
with fresh coffee and juice. Then we packed up and made our way to the parking
area where you catch the horse and carriage. The ride up to the castle was
something out of a movie - fresh snow falling, horses and wonderful old pines
enveloping the surrounding areas with their majestic heights and billowing
boughs drooping with the heaviness of the snow. It was a busy day but we
finally had our turn to tour the castle.
Now we have been in some great castles
having just travelled through the UK,
including Windsor.
But Neuschwanstein
Castle is by far the best
preserved and displayed castle we have been to! The artistry, opulence and
craftsmanship of the many different pieces of furnishings were beyond jaw
dropping. It left the 3 of us completely mesmerized. We only wish that the tour,
which lasts about 30 minutes, was longer. We requested a picture of our
"travelling Pooh" in the ballroom and our tour guide was very kind
and said he was suddenly ‘distracted’ by something he heard in the other
room!!! We got to snap a few quick pix and slipped away. Eventually we made our
way back down the mountain in our horse and carriage and
started our journey
toward our final stop in Italia!
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| King Leopold II |
Travelling through the Austrian Alps was such a
picture perfect journey that our poor camera almost ran out of battery power!
It is a piece of the world that everyone should see in their life. Just so
beautiful. As we travelled on we finally made it to Italy and John and I both laughed
when we drove past the tiny little sign on the road side that announced your
entrance to the country. Again NO STAMP! Our passports are in no way indicative
of our wayward travels!! As we made our way down through Italy we were still in
mountainous regions but what struck us was that all of the villages we passed
were way up in the mountains as apposed to Germany where everything was in the
valleys. The other thing that became very apparent within minutes of entering Italy.....THEY
ARE INSANE! They drive like they are all in a formula one race and if you're in
the passing lane and not going 140 KM/hour they'll flash their high beams at
you to let you know to move over. Holy crap on a cracker was I glad that John
was driving!! When they go around you they often cut across the lane right by
your left bumper. Oh BOY was I
grateful that John was driving!!! We arrived in
Firenze (Florence) late b/c we were in 2 major
traffic tie ups along the way but in the end that was a good thing b/c driving
in Firenze is crazy! We were staying at the
Hotel Chambia which was right down town in an old area of the city. It was so
lovely to be surrounded by all of these old apartment buildings and shops. When
we walked in we were uncertain about what we were in for based on the tiny
little front desk area but it just goes to prove that first impressions aren't
always a good indication. It was wonderful (I'm sure it seems as though I say
that every time and I think I do but we have truly been blessed with the hotels
with stayed in!). Our room was so incredible! We truly felt like we were
spoiled! Beautiful high ceilings with painted frescos in the centre, lovely big
king sized bed and a day bed for Brendan. Everything you could ask for in
"home away". Once we were all settled in we asked the hotel clerk for
a recommendation for a place to have dinner. Thankfully there was a lovely
Italian restaurant just around the corner so we didn't have to move the van (extremely
difficult to
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| "Ummm, grapes please??" |
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| That's pops, falling with style! |
find parking downtown Florence!)
We had a wonderful server who allowed us entrance even though they were
preparing to close. He pointed out options on the menu that would be both quick
for the chef to prepare and enjoyable and then recommended a good house Chianti
for John and I. (His English was impeccable)
We had a really nice meal and felt like it was a good omen for our time
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| More bread than wine ... who runs this place??!! |
here.
Our server was kind enough to agree to have his picture taken with Pooh and
even got into the fun of it, taking Pooh behind the bar and grabbing a bottle
of their most expensive red wine named Barbie (no word of a lie!!) After lots
of heartfelt thanks we made our way back to the hotel. It was so nice b/c the
streets were quiet by then and it gave us the opportunity to really take in our
surroundings. Knowing that we would be coming back to this area to live for a
few months after our cruise was surreal!!
The next day we had hoped to see some of the
sites of the city but unfortunately there was a really heavy inversion layer
and a haze of smoke covered the city. At times you could barely see 5 feet in
front of you so we were unable to discover many of the sites we had wanted to
take a brief look at. We made an attempt at driving downtown but quickly
realized that Florence
is no place for foreigners in vehicles!!! We had wanted to see the Basilica but
we could barely see it from across the street so we will see it when we return
in January.
We headed for Savona first thing the next morning to prepare
for our cruise on the Costa Serena. We packed up and made surprisingly good
time leaving the city. Savona is on the North West coast of Italy so we had a 3 hour drive to
make. It was a clear cool day so it was a perfect day for driving. We particularly
enjoyed the quiet roads as it was a Sunday. We could only assume that all of
the crazy drivers were in church asking for forgiveness for their putting so
many lives in danger just so they could enjoy the pretense of being Formula One
drivers! When we arrived in Savona
we were
completely taken with the beauty and charm of this town which dates
from before 180 BC. It was very quaint but also metropolitan for all of the (us)
shopaholics! According to one taxi driver, it is the part of the Italian
Riviera that "the stars frequent" all summer long.
A few more pix;
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| Who's the kid again ...? |
well as take in the hospitality of the local community. Our favorite
restaurant was at the local brewery on top of the mountain in the 
Once we arrived at our hotel, the Hotel Zunino,
we unloaded the vehicle and set about preparing for our departure the following
morning. As with all of our stays since leaving 
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